Brown-Butter Sourdough Hush Puppies

Method

1. Prepare the bacon-onion jam.Add the diced bacon to a cold skillet and cook over medium-low heat until the fat renders and the bacon begins to crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove excess fat, leaving about 1 tablespoon in the skillet. Add the onions, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden. Stir in the brown sugar, vinegar, barbecue sauce, maple syrup, smoked paprika, and black pepper. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes, until thick, sticky, and nearly jam-like. Add a splash of water only if it begins sticking before the onions are tender. Cool, then finely chop or briefly pulse into a cohesive filling. It should hold its shape on a spoon with no loose liquid.
2. Portion and chill the jam.Line a small baking sheet or plate with parchment. Scoop about 1 teaspoon of bacon-onion jam into 18 to 20 small mounds. Freeze for 20 to 30 minutes, until firm enough to handle.
3. Char the corn.Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Spread the corn in a single layer and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until some kernels develop dark golden spots. Do not add butter; the goal is roasted flavor without added moisture. Cool completely.
4. Brown the butter.Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Continue cooking as it foams and the milk solids brown. Remove from the heat when it smells nutty and turns amber. Cool until warm, not hot.
5. Combine the wet ingredients.In a large bowl, whisk together the active sourdough starter, roasted sweet potato, egg, cooled brown butter, and 30 g buttermilk until mostly smooth.
6. Combine the dry ingredients.In a separate bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, kosher salt, smoked paprika, granulated garlic, and cayenne.
7. Make the hush puppy dough.Fold the dry ingredients into the wet just until combined. Add the charred corn, jalapeño, and scallions. Mix gently until evenly distributed. If the dough is dry or crumbly, add the remaining buttermilk 1 tablespoon at a time. The dough should be thick and sticky, hold a mound when scooped, and be shapeable with lightly oiled hands. It should not pour. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes so the cornmeal can hydrate.
8. Stuff the hush puppies.Lightly oil your hands. Flatten about 2 tablespoons chilled dough into a disc about ½ inch thick. Place one chilled jam portion in the center, fold the dough around it, pinch the seams closed, and make sure no jam is exposed. Roll gently into a compact ball about 1½ to 2 inches wide. Repeat. If the dough becomes too sticky, chill it another 10 minutes instead of adding excess flour.
9. Fry the smoke bombs.Heat 2 to 3 inches of neutral oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven to 340 to 350°F. Fry 4 to 5 hush puppies at a time for 4 to 6 minutes, turning occasionally, until deeply golden. Drain on a wire rack. Cut open the first one to confirm that the dough surrounding the cooked filling is fully set, not wet or gummy. Adjust the size or oil temperature if the exterior browns before the center cooks.
10. Prepare the Smoked Orchard mustard sauce.Whisk the Dijon, mayonnaise, Smoked Orchard pickle brine, honey, smoked paprika, and cayenne until smooth. Taste and adjust with more honey or pickle brine. Refrigerate until serving.
11. Make the smoked honey butter.Melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the honey and smoked paprika, then remove from the heat.
12. Finish and serve.Arrange the freshly fried hush puppies on a platter. Lightly brush with warm smoked honey butter and finish with flaky salt. Serve immediately with the chilled mustard sauce. Slice one open to reveal the smoky bacon-onion center against the golden sweet-potato cornmeal crumb.